Day Five, Osoyoss to Midway

Day Five, Osoyoss to Midway
69 km

We awoke early in the morning faced with the daunting task of crossing Anarchist Mountain, 4892 feet above sea level.  This summit was the only thing that lay between us and Midway.  The weather forecast was for a 30 degree day, so we desperately wanted to be out on the road early in order to beat the heat.  We packed up and we were spinning the wheels by 7am.

I am definitely not a strong hill climber.  In fact, I HATE hills!  I must give due credit to Rob, for getting me up and over Anarchist Summit.  Granted, I physically did the work, but like a highly trained professional coach prepping his team for a playoff run, Rob managed to break the climb into smaller, attainable segments, the next pull-out, the next view-point, 5 more kms, etc. Segments that seemed doable vs. Impossible for me.  He as an uncanny ability to know when I need encouragement and maybe more importantly he knows when not to speak but to simply offer water.

The views during the climb were absolutely spectacular.  Watching the sun rise on the mountain and the pink shades of light dance on the lake below helped take our minds off the climb.  Up we went.  The hill was relentless.  At each hairpin turn, I begged the mountain Gods for mercy, yet the road continued to wind upwards.  There are several false summits on Mount Anarachist, great places to stop for a rest, but at the same time mentally challenging.

Finally, after four very long hours we arrived at the summit.  We pulled across the road to take a picture at the summit marker.  As we celebrated, another cyclist approached.  It was Darren.  We had shared a campsite on our first night with Darren and his cycling partner George.  They were using bike trailers to carry their gear.  Quite intrigued with theIr trailers and gear, we affectionately called them, "The Trailer Park Boys" and we watched out for them throughout our ride.  It seemed somehow fitting that we reunited on the summit.  We shared stories of our respective rides and enjoyed a few minutes togetther at the top of the mountain. We bid farewell and safe travels and then the descent began.

FUN doesn't come close to describing the descent to Rock Creek.  We literally FLEW down the mountain.  What goes up, must come down and down we did go.  I'm not sure what speed we reached, but we travelled almost the entire way to Rock Creek without pedalling.  The pain of the climb seemed far behind us, and as the road levelled out we enjoyed the last few miles on relatively flat terrain.  We rejoined the KVR just outside Midway.  We didn't want the trip to end, so we hopped off our bikes and walked the last km back to Mile 0.

Giggle of the day:

You don't giggle while climbing Anarchist Mountain.

Day Four Penticton to Osoyoos

Day Four - Penticton to Osoyoos
83 km

Many cyclists choose to stop at Penticton and shuttle back to Midway.  I would suggest you are missing a great section of trail by doing this.  Although, much of the route is either sandy or gravel, the off road trail from Penticton to Osoyoos is beautiful.  Travelling adjacent to the lake, with the bluffs towering above us and wind on our back we could not have imagined a better day of riding.

Life is good!  I would try to describe the ride, but in all honesty these pictures tell the story:

Giggle of the Day:

After several rattlesnake sightings, both dead and alive I was feeling a little skittish about slithering critters along the trail.  As we cycled out of Penticton, Rob informed me that if he saw a rattler he would stop.  STOP - I thought.  Hell NO!!!!!  Rob can stop, but my plan is to crank up the gears and get out of there!

Rant of the Day:

I try not to rant, well at least publicly, but today I feel compelled to share our experience.  The KVR Rail Trail as a cycling and hiking destination is without question a provincial and national jewel.  With a small investment in infrastructure this section of the Trans Canada Trail could attract cycling tourists from around the globe.  Infrastructure improvements will need to include a change in philosophy on the part of BC Parks.  Please, do not get me wrong.  I have visited and supported provincial parks since my childhood.  However, we desperately need to look to our neighbours in the south and learn more about their "self=propelled" philosophy.  In many states, when you arrive at a state campsite, under your own steam, either cycling, hiking or paddling you will not be turned away.  They will always find a small patch of grass for you to pitch your tent.

Today, after cycling 80km on sandy trails we arrived at Swiws Provincial Park (Haynes Point). Prior to arriving, we had attempted to book a campsite online, but being "slow" season online bookings were no longer accepted.  Upon arrival, the Camp Host informed us that the campsite was full and turned us away.  He was also unable to provide us with directions to another campsite. On a driving holiday, this is not a big deal, but on a fully loaded touring bike having to backtrack after a long day on the saddle and look for the next campsite is absolutely devastating.  It was surreal to me that the campsite was accommodating RV overflow parking but would not accept us.  We politely asked if we could pitch our tent in the RV overflow area.  The host said this was not possible due to the heavy winds.  The same winds that we were now forced to face as we looked for a place to pitch our tent.

Fortunately, at our ripe old age we have a credit card with a healthy credit limit, so cycling back into town and finding a motel is an option for us.  For many younger cyclists this is not an option, and so they are faced with either knocking on doors or stealth camping.

Enough said. Thanks to Visa, we found ourselves in a little waterfront motel....when life hands you lemons you make lemonade.

Day Three - Myra Canyon to Penticton

Day Three - Myra Canyon to Penticton
82 km

We awakened to a rousing chorus of coyotes howling in the wind.  They certainly put on a show!  We politely waited for the concert to finish and then rolled out of the tent to find the ground covered in frost.  It was a chilly start to the day, but not surprising as we were camping in the high alpine.  We decided to forgo breakfast and get moving, the Myra Canyon and trestles were only a short distance away and it was time to warm up.

Myra Canyon did not disappoint!  12 km of rail trail, 18 trestles, tunnels and scenic vistas that literally take your breath away.

We spent a long time in the Canyon marvelling at the ingenuity of the early railway surveyors.  What a feat of engineering!  The KVR opened on May 31, 1915.  Imagine surveying and building this corridor without the aid of today's modern technology and equipment.   We were also humbled as we imagined the fire of 2003 ravaging the area.  On this beautiful, peaceful day, it was difficult to comprehend the size and intensity of the inferno.  Looking across the rugged terrain gave us a better perspective on how difficult it must have been for the brave firefighters to wage battle in this type of rugged back country.  Leaving the Canyon, we felt gratitude to the many, many volunteers who worked tirelessly during the 1993 MCTRS Restoration Project to rebuild the trestles and keep this piece of history alive for all of us to enjoy.

Bidding farewell to the trestles, we set our sights on Chute Lake.  We were out of water and felt confident that we could refill there. We discovered this next section of trail to be similar to a downhill mogul course.  Lots of deep ruts, washboard sections and rocks to avoid.  Likely better suited for mountain bikes, but we managed just the same, with a few knicks and bruises to show for it.  Badges of honour, I suppose.

During our approach to Chute Lake we stumbled upon a solitary hiker.  Curious, we hopped off our bikes to hike and chat for a while.  This hardy soul was visiting from Aberdeen, Scotland.  He had been wanting to do an epic hike and during an Internet search, had stumbled upon the Trans Canada Trail.  Faithfully following his TCT Guidebook, step by step, he has been trekking since Calgary, on route to Vancouver.  We affectionately nicknamed him our Crazy Scot and since we were only a short distance from the Lodge we invited him to lunch!  Aye laddie that is quite a hike yer on!

Chute Lake Lodge is the destination of choice for many day trippers out of Naramata.  Fresh baked cinnamon buns are the menu item of choice, so of course we had to adhere to local advice and stop for a nibble or two.  Tummies full, it was time to hop on our bikes for the descent to Penticton.  We were excited as this section of trail is all DOWNHILL!!!!!   We imagined ourselves cruising in to town in time for an afternoon swim in Lake Okanagan.  Unfortunately, we soon found ourselves battling the sand demons.  Mountain bikes easily handle this type of terrain, but we found ourselves fighting to stay on the bike as our smaller tires frequently lost traction and constantly swerved out from under us.  On the bright side the views of the lake were breathtaking so it was not really hardship to take this section slowly.

At Naramata, the trail changed dramatically and for the better.  The final leg was a hard packed surface and we literally flew into town.  Cruising our way past wineries and orchards with dramatic lake views we delighted in the sights of the Okanagan Valley.  We were entering wine country.  I can't imagine a better way to end a day of cycle touring!

Giggle of the Day:

Although we had planned to camp tonight, we changed our mind for two very good reasons:

Day Two Beaverdell to Myra Canyon

Day Two Beaverdell to Myra Canyon
71 km

My favourite part of camping, is waking up early in the morning,  lying, snug as a bug in a rug, in my sleeping bag listening to the forest come alive around me.  Rocks snoring is somehow comforting during these early morning hours as it seems to match the rhythm of the forest. The air is crisp, and the early morning light hits the tent, almost inviting you to breakfast.  As I wrestled with the thought of leaving my warm cocoon, I reflected on yesterday.  Although, we only covered 70 km, it was such a full day.  I think that is the reason touring by bike is so rewarding.  Driving that same section of country could have been accomplished easily in less than one hour, yet on a bike it took an entire day.  A day full of mental and physical challenges, laughs and frustrations.  A day where stopping to photograph a simple wild flower was a thrill.  Yep - we are hooked!  It's time to get back on the bike.

Our second day on the KVR did not disappoint.  It was a day of Rock Slides and Clear Cuts.  Rob's "GEO" background got the best of him, and we stopped to photograph each and every slide, examine the rocks, talk about what might have caused the slide or slump.  He was in his element (pun intended :)) and I thoroughly enjoyed both his enthusiasm and an opportunity to get off the bike and rest!

The clear cuts, reminded us of BC's logging history, and the continuing quest to find sustainable means to log and to find balance.  Several of the cuts had been replanted and the seedlings were beginning to grow.  Other areas had been left to Nature, and it was evident how the forest was changing as the birch trees were winning the race to reforest.

The day was a full day of uphill.  Thankfully, the grade of the rail trail was gentle, so it was doable.  Changing terrain was our biggest challenge.  Once again we found ourselves on hard pack, loose gravel, washboards, sand and almost every surface in between.  Mentally challenging to say the least.  Our spirits were lifted near the end of the day.  Just after passing by McCulloch Lake, two moose ran across the trail in front of us.  We must have spooked them as they were deep in the forest before we had the chance to pull out the camera.

Nearing camp, we stopped to take in the panoramic view of Kelowna and the lakes below.  The sun glistened on the city and the lakes looked so inviting.  As we sit in camp, enjoying our Chilli and chocolate pudding (dinner of champions!) we are pouring over our maps.  Tomorrow, we tackle the Myra Canyon and the 18 trestles.  Our goal is to get an early start and enjoy our coffee and oatmeal as we peer into the canyon below.  Now that sounds like something worth getting out of the sleeping bag for!

Giggle of the Day

We are cycling through bear country, so poop on the trail is always a source of conversation.  On our first day, we regularly say bear scat.  Fortunately, we didn't see bears, however we can tell you in detail what they had for last nights dinner.  To our relief, today we did not see any bear scat.  However, as we rounded a bend in the trail we came across the biggest mound of ^&*% you have ever seen!  I declared we have found Bigfoot....and ROb, quick as wink, replied, "No Big Splat."  For the remainder of the ride we were on the watch!

KVR Midway to Beaverdell

Day One -  Mile Zero
Midway to Beaverdell
72.5 km

True confessions.  I am always a little nervous and anxious before the start of a cycling holiday.  Do we have enough food?  Have we packed the right gear?  Are we fit enough?  Will I be able to keep up with Rob?  The list goes on....  However, mixed with the nerves and anticipation is also a sense of excitement.  A new route, new territory, new challenges, new people to meet and an adventure that we share together.  When all is said and done, with the first few spins of the peddles the nerves are behind me and the thrill of the adventure takes over!

One of our favourite things about travelling by bicycle is the opportunity to meet people.  It is curious how the bike seems to break down barriers and the most unlikely folk will approach us and share a story or two.  This trip is no exception.  The day before we set out on the trail we stopped by the Rock Creek Store to pick up detailed copies of the KVR trail map.  The maps have been developed by Kettle Valley Rail Trail Cycle tours and are an excellent resource. At the store, we had the privilege of chatting with Bernie, who not only sold us the maps and a few last minute provisions, but delighted in reviewing each leg of the trip with us.  Bernie is a wealth of knowledge, a lot of fun and a terrific advocate for the trail.

By the time we arrived at Mile 0 in Midway, we were too late to start cycling so we decided to grab a motel room and get an early start the next day.  We stopped by the Museum, which is the Trail Head, to register our car and ask for  accommodation recommendations.  The friendly locals immediately answered our questions and then invited us to the concert that night.  What a plan!  Unfortunately, we couldn't take part as the town motel was fully booked with concert goers. We were sent down the road to Greenwood.

Greenwood did not disappoint.  It is a treasure!  We booked ourselves in to the Greenwood Motel, where Sam took great care of us.  He shared his story of taking over the hotel, getting it up on the Internet and how Greenwood is now "bumping."  Sam sent us down the road to the historic Greenwood Salon.  Built in 1896, the Salon still features the original mouldings and bar....if these walls could talk.  We hadn't even pedalled a single km and we had already met a tour's worth of characters.

After a wonderful night's rest, we were ready to begin!  Mile 0 of the KVR.  What a thrill!  We stopped for a few pictures, met another group who were just beginning their tour, wished them well and set off.  I must say that the KVR surpassed our expectations.  The trail is well marked and well maintained.  The uphill grades Are gradual and the scenery is absolutely breathtaking.  We were surprised at the changing terrain.  From gravel roads, to loose gravel, sandy patches, skree and everything in between, the route kept you guessing.  At times, I felt like "loose gravel gremlins" were literally grabbing my tires and pulling me backwards.  At other times, we almost doubled our speed and "flew" along hard packed trail.  It seemed that just when we felt frustrated, wanting to get off and walk, the trail Gods came through and provided a reprieve.

Sitting by the creek, with the tent up and the sun setting, Rob and I reflected on our favourite part of the day and sections of trail.  One of my favourite sections was an area which had been devastated by a forest fire.  Hundreds of blackened trees stand tall, vivid reminders of Mother Nature's darker side.  Yet, among these trees, a few vibrant windflowers bravely grow.  It seems like a sign that the forest is going to be okay.   Rob enjoyed a stretch of trail through a canyon.  Waterfalls thundered beside us and massive rock walls towered over us.  Humbling to say the least.  Tomorrow we begin the climb towards Myra Canyon.....

Giggle of the Day:

At the Greenwood Salon we asked our server what he would recommend.  "Bison Burgers," he promptly replied.  Make that 2. Rob then requested a vinagrette dressing for his salad.  A few minutes later, when Rob was off taking pictures of the bar, the chef approached me.  She joked, "we don't have that city folk type of dressing here."  Before I said not to worry, our server ran down the street to an adjacent restaurant, triumphantly returning with Rob's dressing of choice.  Darn those "city folk!"

Cycling the KVR - let the adventure begin!

Our Bags are Packed and we are ready to go!

Where does the time go?  It seems like only yesterday we were cycling to the Edge of the World.  In actuality, more than a year has flown by.  We find ourselves watching the leaves turn colour and wondering where the summer has gone.  Simply put - we can't welcome fall without venturing out on at least one cycle tour!

As our time is limited, we have decided to head into central, southern British Columbia and explore the Kettle Valley Rail Trail.  Historically, before becoming an amazing cycling and hiking route, the Kettle Valley Railway was constructed as a means to access the considerable deposits of copper, silver and gold found in the Interior of BC.  Labourers valiantly fought both Mother Nature and each other to build the line.  One of the most popular sections of the trail is the Myra Canyon.  Originally, the section of railway between Myra Station and June Springs station featured 18 wooden trestles and two tunnels.  As you will remember, the 2003 Okanagan Mountain Park Fire destroyed 12 of the 18 trestles.  Fortunately, they have been rebuilt and we are thrilled at the opportunity to explore them!  

Bags are packed, tent is waterproofed and the instant coffee is ready for brewing....it's time to hit the trail!  Thanks for following....

Giggle of the Day:

We are planning to ride a circle route, beginning at Midway. (Mile 0)  Excitedly, we were sharing our route plan with another cyclist, interested in learning more from him about potential campsites on the trail.  Incredulously, he asked how we were getting to Midway from Penticton.  "By bike," we replied, somewhat puzzled by his question.  He shrugged and asked if we knew about Anarchist Pass.  Before we could reply, he gleefully, maybe too gleefully, shared the gruesome details of the climb to the summit.  *%&* he called it.  I am not quite sure why he was so happy to share this bit of bad news.  I suppose time will tell how challenging the climb is.  At this moment, I am quite content imagining the descent from the summit of Anarchist Pass to Rock Creek.  Maybe there will be an ice cream store!

#cycling #cycletour #kvr #kettlevalley #explorebc